Bastille Day

Yesterday found Mei Yau and myself in the Expo ’70-esque, utopian splendour of Battersea Park.

As committed Francophiles, we were there to celebrate French nationhood a few days early at the second annual Bastille Day London Garden Party. Balloons were released in the French national colours, and we enjoyed classic chansons from Les Apaches – who we had previously encountered supporting Monade at the Brixton Windmill.

There were also performances by the legendary Bluebell Girls from Paris’s famous Lido cabaret. These stunning dancers were matched in flamboyance by a troupe of tutu-wearing Bichon Frisé dogs, who made a brief but memorable appearance.

A petanque tournament was staged and, for a personal highlight, I was able to meet French international rugby superstar Serge Betsen.

However, anyone who knows us will be unsurprised to learn that the true high points of our day came from the impressive selection of French food that was available. We were particularly impressed by the delicious macarons from (I think) Café On, and an absolutely stunning raclette. There was a huge queue for this last dish throughout the day, and when we finally decided to join it, the long and tantalising wait proved to be more than worth it!

We’ll be on Lucky Cat on Resonance FM, Thur 4th Feb, 7pm

The blog post title is pretty self-explanatory.

We’ve been invited onto this week’s edition of the wonderful Resonance FM radio show Lucky Cat, on Thursday night from 7-8pm.

Join us and host Zoë Baxter as we spin some Chinese records that have influenced us, as well as some of our own songs. We’ll probably talk at length about food, too.

You can listen to Resonance on 104.4FM in London, or worldwide via their website.

Jin deui for Christmas

The best thing about Christmas is undoubtedly the food. It’s cold and wet outside, there’s nothing good on television so what better time for some messing about in the kitchen?

This year my aunt came over and, amongst other treats, we made a big batch of jin deui (煎堆), the fried sesame seed balls found in many Chinese bakeries.

Jin deui have a long history and are said to have originated some 1,300 years ago in the Tang Dynasty when they were a treat enjoyed only by the imperial household.

The filling for ours is made from lotus seed paste, which looks very unappetising in its tin. Black or red bean paste, however, can also be used to make jin deui.

a tin of lotus paste

Note: it’s Golden Cock brand. I love the utilitarian packaging.

lotus past tin packaging

The lotus paste is rolled into little balls and then wrapped up in balls of dough made from glutinous rice flour, sugar and water.

balls of lotus paste

balls of rice flour dough

We’ve got a little production line going here.

making jin deui

The filled balls are rolled on a plate of sesame seeds to get an even coating.

jin deui in sesame seeds

jin deui before frying

Then they’re ready for frying.

jin deui frying

The jin deui turn themselves over in the hot oil as each side gets fried. Easy.

finished jin deui

All that remains is to eat them up while they’re still warm and a tiny bit gooey.

Ching He-Huang has a recipe for chocolate sesame balls that will give you a good idea of how to make your own jin deui, whatever filling you choose. Anyone want to try peanut butter?

Fire and Knives

While I’ve been lazily chewing over the first issue of Fire & Knives, the likes of Eat Me Daily, Serious Eats and Kottke have pipped me to the post in blogging about this new food quarterly.

Fire and Knives issue 1 cover

I was given a copy by the editor, Tim Hayward, a couple of weeks ago at, of all things, a family birthday party. It was pretty, it was about food so of course I loved it!

In homage to the tactile joys of eating and cooking, the magazine is beautifully presented, like a cross between an academic journal and The Believer. The thick, matt paper; the uncluttered design; the lovely colours; the handy size all add to the pleasure of reading – Eat Me Daily has some photos of the pages.

In this issue there are articles about cooking with tobacco, on the demise of the dinner party, a history of the Half Hundred (an inter-war dining club for Hampstead intellectuals), an unpublished review of Fanny Craddock by Elizabeth David unearthed at the Guildhall Library, a short story about a malignant quail and many other features by both established and new writers.

My favourite, though, has got to be Hayward’s piece on Vincent Price, “Theatre of Food”. We all know Price for his classic horror performances but did you know that he was also an art collector, gourmet and author of many cookbooks?

Vincent Price in the kitchen

He was clearly a man who put his enthusiasm into all that he loved.

Unfortunately, the Vincent Price cookery show is only available on tapes at the BFI archive and his cookbooks from the 1960s and 70s are all out of print but WFMU has an mp3 of Price telling us how to make Viennese stuffed eggs taken from his International Cooking Course LP. And here’s a video of him preparing fish with Wolfgang Puck on TV.

You can buy Fire & Knives online by subscription.

Another look at salted lemons

salted lemon and seltzer

Back in June I prepared some salted lemons in order to recreate my favourite Hong Kong drink from the restaurant Cha Cha Moon, salted lemon Sprite.  The chopped lemons have been stewing in their jar for well over the minimum one-month period required to preserve them and it’s high time to show everyone the results.

glass of salted lemon lemonade

Pour some proper sweet fizzy lemonade, like Sprite or 7-Up, over a few chunks of salted lemon, add ice and it’s all ready to drink up.

salted lemon rind

The lemon (now all gooey and a sort of brown colour) slowly disintegrates in the glass, releasing blasts of astringent saltiness as it breaks up.  Poke it with a spoon!

salted lemon murk

What lies beneath?

Note: the Boylan Bottle Co. lemon seltzer shown in the first photo, while having a very pretty bottle, is entirely unsuitable for creating this drink with.  Trust me.

Coconut tarts

You’ve heard all about the Hong Kong egg custard tart but what about the coconut tart, that other staple of the Chinese bakery?  Fragrant and chewy with an adorable cherry on top, the coconut tart is one of my absolute must-buy cakes when I go to Chinatown.

coconut tarts

I found a simple recipe for them on a Dutch English-language Asian food blog and you can see the results of today’s baking for yourself.  They’re not as yellow and glazed as the ones you buy in the shops but the taste is pretty good.

Here’s my version of the recipe:

Ingredients (makes 10)

For sweet shortcrust pastry

  • 125g plain flour
  • 25g caster sugar
  • a pinch of salt
  • 75g butter
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 tbsp ice cold water

For coconut filling

  • 150g desiccated coconut
  • 50g butter
  • 100ml condensed milk
  • 1 egg yolk

For glaze

  • 1 egg yolk (I didn’t use the yolk on my tarts today because my parents are very cholesterol-conscious)
  • half tbsp melted butter

Method

Make the shortcrust pastry first.  Rub the flour, sugar, salt and butter together with your fingers until the mixture resembles bread crumbs or sand.  Add the yolk and water – it’s very important that this water is really really ice cold.  Knead into a smooth dough.  Wrap the dough in a plastic bag or cling film and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes – this makes the dough much easier to roll out and work with later.

Next make the filling.  Mix the desiccated coconut and butter with your fingers until thoroughly blended together.  Then stir in the condensed milk and yolk with a spoon.

Roll out the chilled dough on a floured surface and cut out circles big enough to line your tart cases or bun tin.  Don’t forget to grease the cases or tin first!  Spoon in the filling.  You can gently smooth the tops to neaten the mounds of filling but don’t pack it down hard.

Bake at 175C for 25 minutes.

Brush the glaze mixture over the tarts as soon as they come out of the oven and decorate with glacé cherries.

Perhaps next time I’ll try reducing the amount of coconut and condensed milk and adding some flour to the filling mixture instead to give the tarts a more cakey texture.  But for now, bon appétit!

HK60s in print…in person!

We recently took part in a thoroughly enjoyable interview for the free music paper London Tourdates, and the issue containing said interview has now hit the streets. If you’re unable to source a physical copy, then you can click on the image below to obtain the article in a more readable size, and learn (mainly) about our love of food and also a bit about our music. NB, we think our interviewer Helen may have been confused between the name of our new EP and the lovely passion fruit ice pearl drink that she was enjoying when we met!

hk60s-londontourdates-issue49-2009

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